Sanibel Island in Lee County, Florida

A few months ago, my dear friend Kara Williams, travel writer for The Vacation Gals and much more, traveled with her husband, Quent, to Florida’s Sanibel Island and Fort Myers for the first time.

What they found were white-sand beaches, a hazy, pink early-evening sky and a relaxed, fun couple’s getaway…especially when a couple leaves their beloved children at home, with grandma.

Together since 1998 and now living in the Colorado mountains with their two kids, Kara and Quent had previously only traveled to Florida to visit friends — and Mickey Mouse — in Orlando. Being utterly landlocked leaves the couple craving an ocean fix a couple times a year, and an invitation to Fort Myers and Sanibel from the Lee County Visitors & Convention Bureau fit the bill just perfectly.

While the area had initially experienced a nervous slowdown in tourism immediately following last summer’s BP oil spill, by the Fall, tourists had begun to realize that the area’s white-sand beaches were safe (having been protected from the spill by the West Florida continental shelf), and were starting to return.

In late September, the Williamses flew off to Lee County. The area’s closest airport is Southwest International Airport (RSW), served by direct flights from many American cities, as well as Toronto. However, there are no direct flights from Kara’s home airports, Aspen (ASE) and Eagle County (EGE); they had to fly from EGE and connect to a direct flight on Frontier from Denver (DEN) to RSW.

They were lucky enough to stay for four nights: two in Fort Myer’s Cape Coral suburb, at the Resort at Marina Village, and two on Sanibel at the romantic Gulf Breeze Cottages. Kara especially loved the latter’s chill vibe and rustic cottage beach scene.

On Sanibel, one of the most popular activities is shell collecting. With the help of a laminated shell guide (The Ultimate Guide to Sanibel & Captiva Shells and Beach Life), Kara (and a only-halfway-interested Quent) sorted out the sandy shell blanket of the Sanibel shoreline; this guide helpfully divvies shells into “Common” (e.g., scallops, sailor’s ears and lettered olives), “Good Finds” and “Rare Treasures.”

Shelling is apparently best during the hour before and the hour after low tide, but Kara saw one dedicated family scouring the beach after dark, buckets and flashlights in hand. It’s ideal to hunt at the surf line (where waves are breaking) and trash line (the high tide marker), and to bring a container to store your sandy loot. Kara’s poor hubby, already questioning the need to bring home a gajillion shells, was forced to carry her mollusk-y booty in his pockets.

(Thankfully, there’s a “shell washing” sink outside at the Gulf Breeze Cottages.)

While they didn’t find the calm Gulf waters good for boogie boarding, they did find them warm enough for a dip. They also enjoyed a sunset catamaran cruise, courtesy of Captiva Cruises; they “caught the boat” at the huge, upscale South Seas Island Resort on neighboring Captiva Island (about 30 minutes’ drive from the Gulf Breeze Cottages). The catamaran for their cruise was designed to accommodate 24 passengers, but they were happy to find only 12 on board, all couples traveling without kids. Captiva also offers shelling cruises, as well as lunch cruises to Cayo Costa (a state park, accessible only by boat) and Cabbage Key, which features an historic inn and nature trails.

One day, the couple borrowed beach cruisers from the Gulf Breeze Cottages (these can also be rented from Billy’s Rentals on Sanibel) and took the flat, paved bike trails out in the direction of the Sanibel Lighthouse. Unfortunately, just as they took off, clouds started moving in. They thought they’d be fine, but no. Big, big no. They were caught in full-on pelting rain, the kind where drops are so hard they actually hurt. To avoid the danger of zero visibility, they pulled into an old gas station to wait out the storm; not much later, it passed as though it never happened, and they carried on…straight to an ice cream stand. Suitably stuffed, they lost motivation and never did make it to the lighthouse. But, well, such are the perils of vacation.

Their favorite excursion was a peaceful, self-guided kayak tour through the J.N. “Ding” Darling Wildlife Refuge, courtesy of Tarpon Bay Explorers. While kayaking through the mangroves, the couple were happy to spot birds like the White Ibis, Little Blue Heron and the Double-Crested Cormorant…as well as five other kayaking couples. Even with all the human traffic, this quiet outing still felt romantic and secluded.

Kara warns that in September, at least, the weather is sweat-dripping-off-your-back hot and humid during the day; however, the nights cool down quite nicely. Out and about, she wore sleeveless tops and skirts, and her husband was most comfortable in shorts and t-shirts. It’s not a particularly dressy part of the world, so there’s no need to pack lots of finery. Kara was happy to always have a sweater or sweatshirt on hand for too-cold air conditioners, and when dining, the couple opted for outdoor seating whenever possible.

Cost-conscious when traveling, the couple was glad to find full kitchens at both the Gulf Breeze Cottages and the Resort at Marina Village; it was a pleasure to be able to shop at local supermarkets for breakfast and picnic fixings. But when they dined out on Sanibel and Pine Islands and in Cape Coral, they didn’t think the food was particularly expensive, and certainly cheaper than most Caribbean resort vacations.

Their favorite meals out were sandwiches at Pine Island’s out-of-the way, down-home local favorite, The Waterfront; sushi at Marker 92 at the Resort at Marina Village; and the seafood-a-palooza at Nervous Nellie’s in Fort Myers Beach. The couple’s one dining disappointment: when trying to have a romantic, upscale meal at the Tarpon Lodge on Pine Island (highly recommended by the Lee County tourism folks), they found it closed for a private party.

Quent and Kara Williams in the soft glow of Lee County, Florida

Here are some other area pursuits that the couple missed:

Deep-sea fishing, for which there are approximately one million local outfitters
The Bailey-Matthews Shell Museum
The Sanibel Historical Village and Museum
The Edison & Ford Winter Estates
Sailing courses at the Offshore Sailing and Power School
October to May, flying in an open cockpit bi-plane with Classic Air Ventures
Various nature, wildlife and bird preserves

Kara advises not to plan too many excursions, though. Even with four nights, the couple didn’t find much time to sit on the (gorgeous) beaches.

They preferred Sanibel to Cape Coral, and (with or without their kids) would opt to return there for at least three nights for an opportunity to simply chill out and explore more Sanibel/Captiva restaurants. Kara might also spend some time in bustling Fort Myers, where our mutual friend Mara Gorman of Mother of All Trips had a great stay at the Pink Shell Resort, right on the beach.

Either way, if Kara and her husband were to return to Lee County, they’d consider taking the Key West Express boat to Key West for an overnight.

After all, it’s almost impossible to have too much Gulf of Mexico in your life.

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<All photos by Kara Williams>
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See also

Lee County Visitors & Convention Bureau

and

A Drive Through the Florida Keys
Key West: Slowing Down to a Meander
TWT Travel Binder: Florida

Travels With Two

*All travel expenses for this stay were paid by Hawks Cay Resort, but all opinions are my own

The Gulf-side gazebo at Hawks Cay Resort

Sometimes getting away from work and reconnecting with the world (and each other) is as simple as a sunrise turning to denim-blue sky, water green as sea glass, and the quiet slap of the Gulf of Mexico against a wooden dock.

Welcome in a pod of cetaceans, a flock of pelicans and a freshly mixed mojito, and you’ve got yourselves a perfect Florida Keys escape at Hawks Cay.

Turning left off of Overseas Highway 1 at Mile Marker 61, I crossed the white-washed bridge to Duck Key beneath a soaring swath of cormorants. I slowed down to watch a leisure trawler putter slowly out of the marina into the mid-afternoon sun, and read the inscription on its back:

A World Away, The Florida Keys.

On Duck Key, 20 minutes south of Islamorada and north of Marathon, Hawks Cay inhabits its own island and its own atmosphere, both relaxed and luxurious.

Within moments of my arrival in the airy lobby, I was seated out back at the Beach Grill, watching flashy cigarette boats cruise soundlessly back and forth through a channel bordered by mangroves and chalky coral. As I leaned back in a teak chair, put up my bare feet and sipped my citrus mojito, two little girls in crayon-bright bathing suits shared a chicken salad wrap with great concentration, looking up only long enough to smile at each other.

Ranked in 2009 by Travel+Leisure as the #2 resort in Florida and the #32 resort in the U.S. and Canada, Hawks Cay is laid back but not undiscovered. Full to capacity during my late February stay, seemingly every other guest was European or South American; their mingled accents and languages, mixed with southern, Cuban and Caribbean lilts, made me feel happily adrift from familiar ground.

Around Hawks Cay, clockwise from top L: The main pool, whimsical sign, around the saltwater lagoon, tables at the Beach Grill, cigarette boats cruise for attention, the glorious fruit table at the Terrace

My water view guest room, with its big West Indian-style mahogany bed, framed shell collections and gleaming vanity, was something I wish I’d designed for my home. Just outside, it was a few steps to the one adults-only pool and hot tub; I swanned around out there until a catering team quietly descended to set up for a private party.

This event lasted several hours right outside my room, and through the thickly-paned glass of my back door I rarely heard a poolside peep. However, through my thin front door, I could hear even the softest whisper out in the hall; anytime there was a knock on a door, it sounded as if it was on mine. After the first couple of hours I got used to it, but late night returns and early morning departures still occasionally broke through my perfect peace.

My water view guest room and its water view at Hawks Cay

Up early the next day with a peachy glow in the sky and a light breeze skipping the water, I had the resort’s nature trails all to myself. Breakfast at the Terrace was a gorgeous buffet of fruits, homemade pastries and fluffy eggs, and I took a seat by a window to watched the morning clouds roll away.

Soon it was time for the star attraction, the Dolphin Connection. Hawks Cay is one of the few U.S. resorts with a dolphin attraction that’s also an accredited training facility, and I was eager to experience their Dolphin Discovery program ($155 for 45 minutes).

After squeezing myself into a fetching wetsuit, our small group was given a 20-minute tutorial on Atlantic bottlenose dolphin anatomy and physiology, as well as what we can all do to improve the health of seas and oceans. Afterwards, a trainer-in-training led my small group to short docks over an enclosed portion of Duck Key’s saltwater lagoon. For 25 minutes, with a few short breaks, we were gently introduced to the Connection’s five male dolphins in the water. I spent most of my time with Hastings or Lucky, getting a safely orchestrated hug and kiss, flipper-to-palm dancing, fish-feeding, giving dolphin belly rubs…and smiling my face off.

I had been concerned about the Humane Society’s plea to end swim-with-dolphin attractions, but what I found at Dolphin Connection hit all of HSUS’ more positive marks. The dolphins here are all captive-bred, and two male pairs are longtime companions (male dolphins naturally form multi-decade friendships in the wild). Trainers treat their charges with care and respect, and human-dolphin time is strictly limited each day. The pen here is their actual saltwater habitat, and only one dolphin has ever attempted escape; after a brief adventure, he came back to the life he knows.

Scenes from Dolphin Connection: saltwater lagoon; Hastings and me; group belly rub; a pre-water tutorial

Post-Discovery, still on a dolphin high, I wandered over to the Duck Key Marina and took a seat on the gray, weathered docks to watch pelicans swoop in to land, ruffle their feathers, and take deep breaths before settling in beside one another for a nice long stare. Diving and snorkel boats had already left the harbor, so sport fishermen left behind cleaned their catches or took their dogs for walks around the island.  One lone couple pushed off in a kayak, headed for mangrove exploration ($20 for a half-day).

I heard the occasional splash of a pelican dive, a lazy wake-clap against a fiberglass hull, and the distant trill of a transistor radio. I could have sat there all day, waiting for Tom’s Harbor House to open.

Scenes from the Duck Key Marina

But I was due at the Calm Waters Spa. Named the #1 hotel spa in the U.S. and Canada (once again by Travel + Leisure), it’s small, quiet and a short outdoor walk from the resort lobby. The gift shop has an amazing array of distinctly affordable gifts, like beaded purses, chunky necklaces, comfort flip-flops and batik-print pajamas. The view from the communal steam room and sauna is of treetops and sky, and both are small and immaculate; I only wish that they weren’t co-ed. Be sure to bring a bathing suit to avoid over-sharing with strangers.

After thumbing through a fascinating photo book on Florida, I was ushered into my 80-minute indulgence, Calm Waters’ signature Key Lime Mojito Body Treatment.  (Personally, I like all of those words.)  There was sugar-scrubbing, warm-wrap cocooning, Vichy-showering and massaging, all with the wafting scent of limes; the only way this could have possibly made me happier is if my masseuse had crammed a giant piece of pie in my mouth.

Key Lime shooters at Alma, Hawks Cay's Nuevo Latino restaurant

Turns out, I’d only have to wait a few hours for pie. As a couples’ traveler, I rarely find myself dining alone, but I enjoyed taking myself on a date to Alma, the resort’s swankiest dining room. The cuisine here is Nuevo Latino, the ingredients fresh and often local. Lighting is low, decor is sparkly and modern, service is friendly and the wine list is gorgeous.

I paired an ’07 Albariño with a rich, creamy conch and yautiá chowder, an (almost too) enormous leafy salad, and one of the best dishes I’ve ever eaten, breadfruit gnocchi with sweet cherry tomatoes and oyster mushrooms. I finished a great meal and a heavenly day with dessert — delicious, nearly crustless ”shooters” of  Key Lime Pie (dinner for two, about $120).

NOTE: Hawks Cay is a two-hour drive from Miami, but leave an extra half-hour’s wiggle room for construction along the Overseas Highway.  Spring for the $17 Sun Pass addition to your rental car and save significant time at tolls.  The resort is approximately 30 minutes north of Key West.

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See related posts
Settling in at Hawks Cay…After Quite a Day
A Drive Through the Florida Keys
Key West: Slowing Down to a Meander
TWT Travel Binder: Florida

Travels With Two

Continued from All Aboard the Crown Princess, Pt. 1

*All travel expenses for this trip were paid by Princess Cruises, but all opinions are my own

The Crown Princess

I just spent a week aboard the Crown Princess on my first big-ship cruise, sailing from Ft. Lauderdale, Florida through the Western Caribbean. I brought along my dear friend Samantha (also a cruise newbie), and while the sailing was billed as the Romance Summit, for us it was our first-ever Valentine’s Day away from our husbands. Now that the ground has (almost) stopped moving when I stand still, I feel ready to reflect on our week at sea.

For all you other cruise virgins out there, I continue with our adventures onboard: We saw hundreds of people renew their vows on board. In a flurry of mini-veils and red satin bow ties, scores of couples took advantage of a Valentine’s Day at sea to hit the Lido Deck and re-pledge their undying commitment. Most folks chose to do this without changing out of their t-shirts and sneakers, which seemed to beg the question:  Is love, in fact, blind? Throughout the week, three couples would also get married in the onboard Hearts & Minds chapel, and at least one couple we know of got engaged. Even though Captain Stubing (a.k.a. actor Gavin MacLeod) had to miss the cruise due to a back injury, it was clear they don’t call the Crown Princess ‘The Love Boat” for nothin.’

Couple renewing their vows on the Lido Deck; the chapel decked out for a wedding

Turns out you can get flowers on board…from anywhere. Despite Adam being in Santa Fe, New Mexico and Samantha’s husband Eddie in L.A., we both got flowers well after the ship had gone out to sea. Adam arranged delivery to our room of a dozen roses through the Princess website, and via email, Eddie alerted Sammy to a beautiful card and Grow a Dozen Roses™ he’d stashed in her suitcase. All week, we watched this genius gift expand in a glass of water, wondering if it might become a floral version of  A Fish Out of Water.

My onboard Valentine's roses from Adam

We decided that if we couldn’t be with the ones we love, we’d love the ones we were with. True, we were far away from our husbands on V-Day, but together we celebrated the ship’s Valentine’s Day gala with fancy dresses, champagne and pink-feathered, sparkly tiaras. While we were in keeping with the spirit of a “princess cruise,” we were by no means the best- dressed on board; many folks brought full-length ball gowns and tuxes. Daring, considering that airline luggage fees are now $20+ per checked bag.

Samantha and I toasting Valentine's Day in the Crooners Lounge

We sat in on the Romance Summit. In honor of Valentine’s week, Princess assembled a “Department of Romance” to help singles and couples make positive changes in their love lives. The panel’s big stars were Trista & Ryan Sutter, the first couple to meet and get married via the ABC reality show, The Bachelorette. They were really nice folks and their kids (who they brought with them) are almost ridiculously adorable.

I, however, was thrilled to meet and hear Anna Post, great-granddaughter of Emily Post, who shared her tips on relationship etiquette; and the glamorous, fabulous Dee Frazier, founder of The University of Dating. Together, these women could improve the romantic connection between every couple imaginable.

We visited the bridge. Our group was given leave to join twinkly Captain Proctor, the Scotsman behind our daily loudspeaker announcements, at the navigational nerve center of the ship. Just about everything is digitally controlled these days — though there are still paper maps on hand for emergencies — and a modern ship’s wheel is a disappointing four inches in diameter. Just about every navigator up there is handsome and Italian, the window wipers are positively enormous, and the view is spectacular.

Turns out anyone can book a tour of the bridge and more. We talked with a man from Chicago who’d just taken his wife on The Ultimate Ship Tour and loved it. The $150 tour (available on several Princess ships) lasts several hours and gives ship passengers access to “back-of-house” areas like the galley, laundry, engine control room, medical center, etc.

Captain Proctor showing us the bridge; the ship's wheel is in the left foreground

We continued to eat, drink, and eat some more. Lobster at the Crown Grill. Elegant, healthy egg-white breakfasts and later, 15 magical Italian courses at Sabatini’s. Caffeine at The Piazza, a European-vibe coffee café that serves espresso drinks and my favorite bean, Jamaican Blue Mountain. Gorgeous Greek salad, lemon shrimp and bakery treats at The International Café, which would be more than welcome to set up shop in our own homes.

Heartbreakingly delicious grilled shrimp at Sabatini's

We learned that onboard wine tasting isn’t our cup of tea. Samantha and I are big into wine, and actually met at a tasting. We were excited to visit Vines, the Crown Princess’s onboard wine bar, and to sign up for a special wine tasting event at Sabatini’s (for $25) that would include the legendary Opus One.

At Vines, where wine is charged to your room card, you’re supposed to be given complimentary sushi and tapas, and with any luck, offered the opportunity to purchase gourmet cheeses for $1 per generous portion. Despite being the only people in the bar one early evening, we were offered none of these things by the one unfriendly waiter who took our wine order. We eventually managed to order a little sushi and a plate of cheese, but both were delivered with a world-weary sigh. We loved the German blue cheese…but we didn’t linger.

The wine tasting at Sabatini’s turned out to be dull and stuffy. About 60 silent people were stiffly seated at round tables around the posh dining room while a series of European waiters took to microphones in heavily-accented English to explain each wine on the list in aching, uninspired detail. In a smaller setting, this approach might have allowed for some relaxed laughter, but in this format was as much fun as taking the SATs. The gorgeous wine selections were worth the money we paid, but we’d rather have fled this uptight scene.

We got stressed out at the spa. Samantha and I were kindly invited to try out complimentary treatments at the ship’s lovely Lotus Spa…but this wasn’t as lovely as it may sound.

My massage and facial left me temporarily boneless as a rubber chicken, but Samantha’s seaweed wrap proved cold and clammy rather than warm and soothing. (Think “getting an ultrasound,” and you’ve got the basic idea.) At the end of each of our treatments, we were helped to sit up, still naked under sheets, handed water and, unbidden, were given lectures from our early 20-something aestheticians on how to take better care of ourselves. Samantha’s talking-to involved a stern warning to immediately abandon all the foods she holds dear in favor of anything alkaline. I was given a 10-minute hard sell for about $400 worth of skin care products that could conveniently be found at the front desk.

Moments later, through a minor misunderstanding, we were each brought bills for about $300. I was shocked to learn that if my own spa experience had gone according to the Lotus plan, I would have left not only annoyed, but also $700 lighter. (The error of “$300 vs. free” was immediately fixed by the front desk, but unfortunately, none too politely.)

The Lotus Spa's elusive Thermal Suite

We would later discover that, press trip aside, suite passengers and folks who’ve booked spa treatments are afforded free access to the Thermal Suite, a quiet, co-ed area replete with heated-tile lounging beds and aromatic steam rooms. (Otherwise, access to the Thermal Suite costs $20 a day, $99 a week or $150 for a couples’ pass.)

However, we weren’t informed about this at the time of our spa visit by the spa staff, and in fact weren’t given leave to visit the ladies’ locker room or change into robes. It would take several attempts (and a Princess rep’s intervention) to convince the front desk staff we were worthy of a 20-minute visit to the Suite, but by then the shine was off our relaxation penny. That said, you should (try to) get in and snag two tiled lounges side by side…it’s warm and smells nice in there.

We sampled the onboard activities. We dropped in on one of the small, daily LGBT (Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual, Transgender) gatherings and learned all about the lavish costume parties on gay cruise lines like RSVP. Most couples agreed that the Crown Princess is pretty straight, but that this environment makes for a more monogamously-themed vacation. For one young guy in this group, this was his 26th Princess cruise, but his first with his new boyfriend.

While I Romance Summited on my own, Samantha hit the heavenly, al fresco, adults-only Sanctuary (my choice of alternative to the Lotus Spa); went to the tricked-out gym to ride a tandem bike with a view of the sea; then played a rousing game of bingo at the casino with a handful of elderly Canadians.  

Together, we laughed along with relationship comedian (and Romance Summit member) Kevin Hughes and took in the extravaganza of the Princess Theater’s Destination Anywhere, where the music veers from romantic Big Band to awkwardly raunchy rap to Janet Jackson’s Rhythym Nation to the “Lion King” soundtrack.

On my own, I helped cheer on a Men’s Sexy Legs contest, where 83 year-old Carl was the clear (and saucy) winner.

Destination Anywhere...and Destination Carl

We puzzled over the onboard art gallery. As some of you know, when I’m not a travel writer, I’m an artist; I love going to art galleries and museums, and enjoy seeing how art is created, packaged and sold. What I do not know is how cartoon children dressed as scruffy clowns, cross-legged bronze unicorns and a big green olive with arms and legs could command prices upwards of $20,000. (Accent, by the way, on the “upwards.”) There was a big art auction by week’s end, and we saw several pieces get snatched up by discerning guests who have either a rollicking sense of humor or a desire to set wads of their cash aflame.

Painting by Michael Godard

We fell in love with “Photo Alley.” Every day, just outside the Crown Grill restaurant, there was an ever-growing display of professional photos taken of the ship’s guests at different special events. We pored over these each evening, looking for interesting faces, fancy outfits and couples in love. Folks from these photos became pseudo-celebrities to us, and if we saw them around the ship we’d poke each other and say, “There he/she is!”  (Clearly, in some ways, we are still in junior high.)

Each night at 11pm, the $6+ photos would be locked away, always before we were done…while the $20,000+ artwork would just sit out for all to see. Unfair, if you ask me.

We excursion’ed off the ship four times. I signed us up for tours in several ports:

Grand Cayman
Roatán, Honduras
Cozumel, Playa del Carmen and the ruins of Tulum in Mexico
Eleuthera, Bahamas

Accounts of these adventures to follow!

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Continued in
Turtles, Hell and Rum Cake: Grand Cayman
The Highs and Lows of Roatan
Doin’ Time at the Ruins of Tulum
Eleuthera: Between Oh Lord and Thank God

Travels With Two

*All travel expenses for this trip were paid by Princess Cruises, but all opinions are my own

The Crown Princess docked in Port Everglades

I just spent a week aboard the Crown Princess on my first big-ship cruise, sailing from Ft. Lauderdale, Florida through the Western Caribbean. I brought along my dear friend Samantha (also a cruise newbie), and while the sailing was billed as the Romance Summit, for us it was our first-ever Valentine’s Day away from our husbands.

Now that the ground has (almost) stopped moving when I stand still, I feel ready to reminisce on our week at sea. For all you other cruise virgins out there, here we go:

Well, first there was a night in Hollywood. Hollywood, Florida, that is. The flights with the best schedules from the West Coast get you into Miami at either the crack of dawn or the late afternoon.  Since boarding of the Crown Princess at Port Everglades in Ft. Lauderdale (40 minutes or so from MIA) doesn’t begin until about 1 pm, and there’s little entertainment near the port, there’s no sense to arriving early.

So, Princess booked us on a morning departure-afternoon arrival flight the day before our sailing and put us up in the Marriott Hollywood Beach, where the turquoise exterior is pure early ’60s but our beautifully re-done ninth-floor room featured a sweeping view of the ocean. The Tiki-themed restaurant downstairs was wafting the odors of a high school cafeteria (turns out its chef is none other than Ron Duprat, maligned Top Chef Las Vegas contestant), so despite the rainy night we hit our iPhones for dinner suggestions. We came up with Giorgio’s Grill, popular with both Hollywood’s large retirement community and its grown children, and tried crisp Greek wine, a big bright salmon salad, shrimp saganaki with tomatoes and feta, and tender grilled octopus. We were so stuffed that even with the chilly drizzle, we walked the half-mile back to the hotel. We briefly regretted having to half-unpack, but we did get a good night’s sleep.

Morning view from the 9th floor, Hollywood Beach Mariott

We boarded at Port Everglades. The next morning, we stapled our pre-provided luggage tags to our bags (we’d been emailed with our itineraries while still at home), and our excursion-bus journey to Port Everglades took all of 10 minutes with traffic. Besides the Crown Princess, which can carry over 3000 passengers and 1200 crewmembers, there were about five other massive ships in port. We were immediately struck by the overwhelming infrastructure; the processing center for Princess alone seems every bit as large as Port Authority in New York City.

We were lightly security-screened, then herded towards long lines in a great big concrete hall with a long row of reception booths at one end; imagine checking in to a friendly gulag. In exchange for presenting our passports and itinerary confirmations, we were each presented with the lifeblood of any modern big-ship cruise: Our card.

This ship-issued card is linked to a credit card you provide, and enables you to embark/disembark on excursions, identify yourself and generally lose track of what you’re spending on board. The Coke sticker you see here on mine is ship gold (and a press trip perk), as it gets you free sodas.

My Princess Cruises identification and onboard purchase card

We embarked. At first, when aboard a leisure flotilla like the Crown Princess, one doesn’t so much leave a port as bids it a splashy adieu. After a relatively painless (massive) group instruction on the ways of life jacket safety, we were treated to a triumphant horn blast and given leave to hit the decks for a booty-shakin’ farewell party. For instance, the Caribbean house band, Temperature, treated us to a rousing rendition of “Hot Hot Hot.”

Good, good times.

Pre-embarkation safety drill in the Princess Theater, illustrating that orange isn't my color

Leaving Fort Lauderdale, Florida in the dust, we waved goodbye to those who live in shore-bound homes and pointed our faces towards the blue unknown. We refrained from getting those all-important “I’m king of the world” photos, though, as crawling up on the prow is frowned upon by the gentlemen up on the bridge.

Leaving Port Everglades and Ft. Lauderdale (that's Samantha's on the left)

We explored the ship. The Crown Princess isn’t interested in you wasting your hours at sea. There are two big pools on the Lido Deck. At the back of the ship, in what I call Hot Tub Alley, there are a whopping three tubs to choose from, and four others elsewhere. There’s a basketball court (mysteriously placed above the finest dining establishment on board, Sabatini’s) and a nine-hole golf putting course. There’s a spa and wedding chapel, a full-service gym, a casino (empty at noon but full by midnight), a shopping mall, a central marble-and-glass piazza, a library, an enormous outdoor movie screen, three theaters, bars and restaurants for days, and even a disco.

Oh, and don’t even get me started on the art gallery…that’ll come later.

All around the Crown Princess, from top to bottom

We unpacked. Storage space in our cozy ninth-deck mini-suite (retail-priced at about $1000/night) was at a premium, but we managed to find plenty of cubby, drawer and closet space for all our dresses, shoes, toiletries, etc. If I’d been traveling with Adam instead of Samantha, I’d have been positively rolling in room rather than merely afforded what I need. Either way, we stored our suitcases neatly under each of our twin beds and rarely gave them another thought.

Plugs, though, are hard to come by on the Crown Princess. Samantha and I both travel with laptops, iPhones and digital cameras, but neither of us thought to bring a splitter; luckily, we were able to score a power strip from Maciej, our magical Polish room steward. (On the last day of the cruise, I found a small black travel bag on a corner of the floor full of handy items from Princess, including a power strip/adapter…and thank them for their heartfelt generosity.)

I took a brief seat on our un-shaded balcony to enjoy the sea rushing by in the last half-hour of daylight; turning around, I could see 50 other people doing the same thing from their balconies. It was clear that there would be little opportunity for wandering out here in my jammies throughout the week.

Our Dolphin Deck mini-suite; the hallway outside; the view of the bridge from our balcony

We ate. Oh, there’ll be a lot more on this topic, as unless you’ve been living under a rock, you’ve surely heard that there’s a lot of chow on cruise ships.Our first few meals prepared us perfectly for the adventure of all-inclusive onboard dining.

Dinner was at Michelangelo’s, a huge, plush room tricked out in glorious Art-Deco-homage-in-the-1980s style, its kidney-shaped chrome ceiling studded with lots of little night-sky lights. (Upstairs one deck is DaVinci’s, an almost interchangeable version of the this same room. This is an Italian-built ship, and you’ll see a lot of Italian names and dining on board.)

Our twinkly Eastern European head waiter, Daniel, walked us through the menu: right side, what’s on tap for tonight; left side, what you can have every single night. Wine here is mid-range but free-flowing. I’d recommend skipping the hard bread rolls, trying any fish dish (veggie sides will be offered throughout the meal) and sharing their gorgeous desserts. The more meals you share, in fact, the better chance you have of  not gaining weight while aboard.

If you have allergies, let the ship know before you board, and all your sit-down meals will be planned accordingly for you.

Dinner at Michelangelo's; all-you-can-eat sushi at Cafe Caribe; breakfast at Horizon Court

Breakfast and lunch were at the Horizon Court and Café Caribe, respectively, which are both buffets and wonderful places to feel good about your body shape and genealogy. (That is to say, this is not where you’ll find the beautiful folks on board.) There’s generally an array of cereals, eggs, grilled mushrooms, a salad bar and lots of fruit, but we were blown away by their soups, especially the golden pea and the garbanzo bean stew.  

Protocol is simple: You lather up with anti-bacterial hand gel, grab a ridiculously large plate, jostle with hungry, possibly hostile people who resent having to wait in line, and tuck in with as much restraint as you can muster.  Phew.

Continued in
All Aboard the Crown Princess, Pt. 2

Travels With Two

Fresh (in a manner of speaking) off a week aboard the Crown Princess, I’ve just arrived at the Hawks Cay Resort in the Florida Keys to rediscover my land legs, unwind in a gorgeous poolside room with dark woods and soft fabrics…and frolic with dolphins.

After the horrendous day of travel I’ve had, it’s a complete joy to be here.

I’ve been up today since 6am, having spent the day disembarking from the Crown Princess at Port Everglades in Ft. Lauderdale, bidding adieu to my friend/shipmate Samantha, then driving at a leisurely pace down the Overseas Highway. Some people might think a press trip followed by a press weekend is crazy talk, but so far I’m loving the chance to relax post-cruise and airplane-free.

Getting off the ship was a mildly epic contact sport involving 2000 some-odd people in a focused melee of luggage, passports, taxis and bus vouchers. Once on a bus bound for my rental car at the Ft. Lauderdale airport, though, the ride was only a few short minutes. However, while I found the airport in Ft. Lauderdale bright, clean, and full of kind people, an unfortunate incident there threw me for a loop.

Stepping down from the bus with a smile, I saw the luggage handler hoisting my suitcase onto a big cart and said not to worry, I’d be fine wheeling my own bags from there. At that moment, an elderly gentleman (who, it would soon become clear, suffers from dementia) wheeled up with his walker and announced loudly, “My God, you have a voice that could scratch glass! Shut the [bleep] up.”

The man’s much younger caretaker stopped in her tracks, frozen. The luggage handler from the bus turned his back and kept about his business. Two sweet, bubbly sixty-something women from the cruise stood on either side of me, poised for trouble. Surprised, I took a step back and begged this man’s pardon, to which he replied, “Hearing your voice hurts my ears and you just better stop using it.”

Now, I’ve been told my entire life that I have a lovely voice (and that I talk a heck of a lot, but at least in a mellifluous tone), but this is beside the point. Seeking to exit the scene with my dignity intact, I merely replied with a smile and said, “Sir, that’s just about the rudest thing anyone’s ever said to me. But you have a good day, now.”

Before I could turn to go, this man stepped forward and cuffed me on the jaw, hard, with a closed fist. That’s right, folks, for the implied crime of being within a stranger’s earshot, I was hit in the face by a mentally ill octogenarian outside a crowded airport.

My “assailant” had apparently been steeped in some ashy dirt, because he left a big smudge on my jawline; the two women beside me hissed at him to move off, and then, to my grateful surprise, one pulled out a kleenex to dust me off. The man’s caretaker moved towards me to apologize, but I assured her it wasn’t her fault..and wished her luck for a better day. (Can’t imagine her life’s a picnic.) The burly luggage guy had already moved well on ahead.

This, dear readers, would never have happened if Adam had been traveling with me. Ah, well…such are the bizarre adventures of the frequent traveler.

Flash forward to a long, straight drive beside turquoise water in a white PT Cruiser (very Florida-appropriate), a warm greeting at Hawks Cay, a tasty salad wrap and (nerves-calming) mojito at the Beachside Grill, and watching flashy cigarette boats putter by enroute to the nearby marina. It’s absolutely beautiful weather in the Keys today, a breezy and sunny 75 degrees Fahrenheit.

Tomorrow I’ll be swimming with dolphins at The Dolphin Connection, the resort’s on-site dolphin research facility, and indulging in a Key Lime Mojito Body Treatment (three of my favorite things strung all together) at the resort’s Calm Waters Spa. I feel a little like a kid just on the verge of going to Disneyland…albeit one with a slightly sore jaw.

Now ensconced in a terry robe on a big, comfy bed, the strains of Latin jazz wafting in from a poolside party as the golden sun sets through slowly waving palms, I can’t help feeling that I’d love to be both with my husband and here.

More to come next week on Hawks Cay, my week’s sail aboard the Crown Princess and my excursions ashore.

‘Til then, please follow my adventures on Twitter and Facebook!

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See also

A World Away at Hawks Cay

Travels With Two

South Beach, Miami

As you may have noticed on ye olde blog, both we and I have recently become frequent Caribbean travelers. From L.A., this generally involves at least two flights with a layover in Miami, a city we really enjoy.

One recent day of American Airlines travel to Aruba featured a staggering 6-hour layover at MIA. A long time to stay in the airport, to be sure, but too short for a whole day in the city.

So…what to do with just a few hours in Miami?

Before attempting an outer-airport Miami layover, either seek out baggage storage in Concourse E, or make sure you’ve checked your baggage through to your next flight. Either way, keep your carry-on light.

Also, make sure to wear an outfit that layers. MIA Airport tends to be heavily air-conditioned, but it’s usually 80° F outside.

We’d encourage you to head for Miami Beach.

But first, you have to find your way out of the airport.

Map of Concourses at MIA

MIA’s North Terminal has been under renovation since 2005, and waffles between swanky art museum and dusty ghost town. There are precious few signs, no people movers and endless distances.  In 2011, what are now Concourses A, B and D will be one large Concourse D, featuring the Oneworld Alliance: American Airlines, British Airways, Canadian Airlines, Cathay Pacific, Qantas and more.

But that’s in 2011.

As we searched for an escape route from the present Concourse D, we did the logical thing and headed towards baggage claim. We walked for about one mile, still on the second floor. (Did I mention there are precious few signs?)  We asked no fewer than six airport employees how to find a taxi. Each one of them said the same thing: “You have to get downstairs to the first floor. Just keep on going [pointing to their left] that way.”

We gave up and managed to get outside at one point, but found no escalator or stairs amidst chain link fencing and planked-over walkways…and came back in.

Almost by chance, on the line between Concourses D and E, just past a closed La Carreta restaurant, we found a freight elevator on our left. We looked around as if in fear of being placed on the do-not-fly list, caught the eye of an assenting security guy and rode our way down to freedom. (I wish you similar godspeed.)

A tax stand materialized almost instantly…but know that cab rides in this town ain’t cheap. MIA is only 8 miles from downtown Miami, but it was $32 one way to South Miami/Miami Beach.

However, we’d have only saved $4 on the slower, multi-stop Super Shuttle. Here’s the taxi/shuttle rate chart for several destinations around greater Miami.

We could have saved a lot if only we’d asked about the Metrobus. There’s a computerized EASY pass booth and waiting area in Concourse E across from self-parking (see my map link above). There are several bus routes to/from MIA (see “Metrobus serving MIA”), but the one to Miami Beach is Route J.

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The glorious sand of South Beach

Once we’d reached Miami Beach (via a 20-minute cab ride), here’s what we did:

Had a late lunch at Joe’s Stone Crab (11 Washington Avenue, (305) 673-0365). The restaurant closes for awhile in the mid-afternoon, but you can sit down next door at the pretty carry-out section. I’d say skip the gumbo (it’s pretty bland) and have your gorgeous stone crab claws pre-cracked for you.

Walked two blocks and strolled the glorious sand of South Beach.

Departed said sand at Ocean Drive, washing our feet at the beachside showers. There are countless Art Deco hotels and restaurants here.

We, however, walked up one block to Collins Avenue.

We then walked far too many blocks in the hot sun to reach a mojito at The Delano (1685 Collins Avenue, (305) 672-2000). During the day, non-guests aren’t allowed out by the pool, but you can order a cocktail in the shaded restaurant that overlooks it. After we’d relaxed a while and canoodled on a fuzzy settee, we wafted outside to a cab hailed just for us.

Next time, I’d stop several blocks sooner at the Hemisphere Lounge in the Loews (1601 Collins Avenue, (305) 604-1601).

The only advantage to our epic hike: We saw Mystery, star of Neil Strauss’ bestselling book The Game: Penetrating the Secret Society of Pickup Artists and the subsequent VH1 reality show, schooling two young nerds in the art of love.  To us, this was well worth a little sweat.

TAXI SEARCH:  25 minutes
TAXI RIDE: 20 minutes ($32 + tip = $40)
LUNCH AT JOE’S STONE CRAB:  1 hour ($34.60)
WALKING, BEACH & STREET:  40 minutes
DRINKS AT THE DELANO:  1 hour ($24 + tip = 28)
TAXI RIDE: 20 minutes ($32 + tip = $40)
BACK THROUGH SECURITY : 25 minutes
TOTAL TIME & COST:  about 4 hours ($142.60)

Once back at our gate, we had just shy of two hours still to wait. We grabbed a couple of café con leches at an MIA outpost of our beloved Cafe Versailles and settled in with books and magazines and music.

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My mom had another great suggestion for a Miami layover:

She and my Dad once fled MIA for the downtown Hyatt Regency by hopping on the inexpensive hotel shuttle (again, see this map), storing their luggage behind the hotel’s counter, having a long lunch, using the pool, sprucing up in the gym, and hopping a shuttle back. Brilliant.

Or, if you’ve never been to Miami and want to do a little time-conscious sightseeing:

Book one of several 3-hour Gray Line City Tours, with the ability to hop on or off to do more exploring.

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See related posts
Our Miami Top 10
Miami: A Mid-Week Wander
Death by Cubano Cuisine
Buen Ser, Miami
The Hauntingly Beautiful Biltmore
TWT Travel Binder: Florida

Travels With Two

In December 2008, we drove the length of the Keys, stopped in Key West,
and then backtracked to Coral Gables and Miami.

And if we could go back to the turquoise water, endless blue skies,
renegade roosters, friendly people and cafe con leche right this minute
…believe me, we would.

Here are some resources to help you plan your own “travels with two” to Florida.

Travels With Two
Posts on Florida

FLORIDA – GENERAL
Guides
Florida State Tourism Guide
National Geographic
Frommers
Fodors
Conde Nast Traveler
Concierge.com
Globe Trekker: Florida & the Bahamas
Articles
Southern Living: Florida search results

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MIAMI
Guides
Time Out Miami
Travel + Leisure: Miami
Conde Nast Traveler: Miami
Articles
Travel + Leisure: Smart City: Miami
Food & Wine: Miami’s Design District
Travel + Leisure: 50 Romantic Escapes: Miami
Travel + Leisure: 50 Romantic Places: South Beach, Miami
Travel + Leisure: Top 25 Spas/U.S. & Canada: Mandarin Oriental
Travel + Leisure: Top 25 Spas/U.S. & Canada: The Delano

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THE FLORIDA KEYS
Guides
Islands Magazine: The Florida Keys
Travel + Leisure: Key West
Conde Nast Traveler: Key West
Articles
NGT: 48 Hours in Key West

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OTHER FL DESTINATIONS
Guides
Travel + Leisure: Fort Lauderdale
Conde Nast Traveler: Gulf Islands
Islands Magazine: Sanibel & Captiva
Samantha Brown: Orlando
Articles
Travel + Leisure: 10 Best Romantic Hotels in the U.S.: Little Palm Island
Travel + Leisure: Top 25 Spas/U.S. & Canada: Ritz-Carlton Sarasota
Travel + Leisure: The 10 Coziest U.S. Spas: ESPA at Acqualina, Sunny Isles
NGT: Historic places rated: St. Augustine & Winter Park
Conde Nast Traveler: America’s Best Beaches

Fairchild Botanical Garden, Coral Gables

Mangrove flats, Florida Keys

Have a Florida tip, story, or blog post you’d like to share?

Travels With Two

Flying in the face of current financial wisdom, this year we hope to journey to a beach on the far edge of the Earth to celebrate our 10th anniversary. But we’re worried about what’s happening in the water…                   We were recently in Miami and the Keys, and were surprised by repeated warnings of Portuguese Man o’ War jellyfish swarms in the Gulf of Mexico. A family we met in Miami said that this former phenomenon had become increasingly common in the past few years; they don’t let their kids swim on “swarm days.” When I got back home to LA, I started to do some research…and it turns out Florida’s not alone.Poisonous jellyfish swarms are increasing across the world. In the South of France, in Australia’s Great Barrier Reef, around the U.K., Alaska, Hawaii, Japan, the South Pacific island of Palau, and far more. Don’t believe me? Check out this super-scary jellyfish swarm report from the National Science Foundation.

More jellyfish means not only aqua-terror, but algae. Whole teeming clouds of it. The reason? Zooplankton eat algae, and jellyfish eat zooplankton. Lots more jellyfish means lots less zooplankton and lots more algae. Algae blooms clog coral reefs and sea grass beds, and toxic varieties poison fish and sea birds.

It’s enough to put us off a romantic beach vacation. And it gets me thinking about the sea turtle connection.

We’ve had two brushes with sea turtles in our travels so far: snorkeling off Kona on the Big Island of Hawaii, and in rehabilitation tanks at The Turtle Farm in Isla Mujeres, Mexico. The message both times was to take care, as these are precious creatures.  

The seven types of sea turtles inhabit almost every sea on Earth, grazing on sea grass beds and enabling them to become vital fish nurseries. These gentle reptiles are almost universally endangered by illegal hunting and poaching; their meat, skin, shells and eggs are highly prized. But in the last few years, marine rubbish, like stray fishing lines and floating plastic trash bags, has moved to the top of the sea turtle predator list.  

Fishing lines snag, injure, and kill thousands of sea turtles around the world every year — and they’re used as close to home as the Gulf of Mexico. Defenders of Wildlife are presently taking on this one piece of the puzzle with a petition to stop bottom longline fishing in the Gulf. Click here to sign the petition for yourself before March 1st.

Plastic bags, which generally blow into the ocean from landfills, are their own unique threat: when wet, they look an awful lot like jellyfish. Turns out, toxin-impervious sea turtles are one of poisonous jellyfishes’ few natural predators. Turtles nibble and swallow the deceptive bags, and, lacking a natural ability to throw up, are slowly strangled.

And here we thought that plastic bags just suck because they’re rarely recycled and require large amounts of oil to produce. 

So, the circle of life here has no uplifting theme song: Plastic bag-choked turtles are dying in direct proportion to the freakish overpopulation of jellyfish, rise in beach-going danger, and blooming of algae clouds that are killing reefs, fish, and birds.  

But before you feel powerless as not only a traveler but also a human being, remember this as just one more good argument for changing our national policy on plastic bags…and for reusable canvas shopping bags.

Because creatures and beaches are terrible things to waste.

 

Thank you to Nathalie George for her photos of sea turtle hatchlings from Tulum, Mexico.

 

 

 

Travels With Two