I’ve had New Orleans on the brain a lot lately…despite the fact that I’ve never been there. Good thing, then, that one of my dearest friends and colleagues, Jessica Spiegel, has fallen deeply in love with the city. Here, she offers some great tips to help you fall in love with it, too.
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I’d argue that when it comes to traveling, the biggest challenge for busy working couples (after finding the time to get away in the first place) is being able to physically and mentally relax.And because it’s so easy to bring work- and life-troubles with us wherever we go (thanks a lot, iPhone), it’s especially important to choose a vacation destination that encourages relaxation.

While it’s easy to think of relaxing in the same breath as beaches and resorts, I personally love finding urban settings brimming with great culture and food that still make me feel I’ve left my own version of the real world behind. In other words, I love New Orleans.

And to be perfectly frank, it’s almost impossible to not slow down in New Orleans. Not unless you want to give yourself a heart attack, that is.

Ah, the Mississippi River

New Orleans transplant and author Tom Piazza, in his fantastic post-Katrina book Why New Orleans Matters, says the city has “weather that for at least seven months a year is equivalent to wearing a towel soaked in steaming hot water wrapped around your head.” While that may not sound altogether appealing, it does demonstrate one of the (many) reasons New Orleans wears the “Big Easy” moniker so well; people take it easy in this part of the world, partly because it’s ingrained in the culture and partly because it’s just not possible to move any more quickly.

Despite the fact that this steamy oh-my-word-the-air-is-so-heavy-can-you-carry-it-for-me-please weather is fairly consistent year-round, it’s not the only ingredient for the perfect relaxing trip to New Orleans.

Here are five things that I think will help you ease into The Big Easy:

Avoid the Summer. The weather is hot enough during the rest of the year; there’s no need to torture yourself with a visit during the hottest period. Having visited New Orleans in both spring and fall, I can vouch for both being humid and warm without being too much of either. In late summer/early fall you may run into problems with hurricane season (even if they pale in comparison to Katrina, they can still be a pain), so a spring or late fall visit might be better. Later in the fall you might get periodic ferocious rainstorms, but they’re brief and it’s T-shirt weather on either side of the storm. It’s the perfect excuse to duck into the nearest bar for another Sazerac.

Come to New Orleans in the Spring to catch some sweet hat/carriage action at the Easter Parade

Avoid Bourbon Street. I know, I know, it’s super popular and you can hear the thumping bass from a couple blocks away, and you’ve just got to see what all the fuss is about. Fine. Walk down Bourbon Street once to say you’ve done it, and then stay the hell away from it. Bourbon Street is where the worst elements of bachelor parties, Las Vegas, and spring break have set up camp in New Orleans, and while this is the kind of stuff most people (who have never visited) think defines the city, it’s only a tiny part of what makes New Orleans. It’s also the furthest thing from relaxing. The sheer noise from karaoke and disco bars spilling onto the street, not to mention the guys with microphones yelling at passers-by to join the party, make intimate conversations impossible, and you end up feeling like you’re dodging both the drunkards and the microphone guys. It’s a spectacle, so have a peek, but then find another bar elsewhere. Lord knows there are plenty of ‘em.

Decidedly not Bourbon Street

Pick an Historic (& Locally-Run) Hotel or B&B. This tip has two purposes. First, by picking an historic property in either the French Quarter or the Garden District (the two areas I’d recommend looking in) you’re less likely to end up with the sorts of modern amenities we love and need when we travel for work but that make it far too easy to “just check in real quick” when you’re trying to disconnect. (Sure, that historic hotel might have WiFi, but let’s be honest – it’s slow when you’re on the 12th floor. It’s not worth it. Put the phone down.) Not only that, when everything (elevators, particularly) is a bit older it helps force you to slow down. Second, by booking a stay with a locally-run property as opposed to a big chain you’re supporting a community that still desperately needs the help. New Orleans is a city with more problems than anyone can count – Katrina-related and otherwise – but by giving your tourist money to the people who live there in the most direct way possible you’ll hit the pillow each night with warm fuzzies in your heart.

An historic house in the Garden District

Branch Out from Deep-Fried Goodies. One could argue that indulging in every deep-fried food imaginable would certainly slow you down, but unless this kind of thing constitutes your normal everyday diet, it’s likely to make you feel a bit ill after awhile…and that’s pretty much the opposite of a relaxing and romantic vacation. Thankfully, although New Orleans is certainly famous for its love of the deep fryer, there are chefs in the city creating exciting food that doesn’t need to be battered. Cochon chef and co-owner Stephen Stryjewski won a James Beard Award for “Best Chef: South” in 2011, and the restaurant’s other chef and co-owner, Donald Link, won the award in 2007. The Green Goddess isn’t nearly as new-agey as you’d think from the name – it’s noted for including bacon in everything, including dessert – and it’s an exciting mix of New Orleans culinary traditions and local ingredients with traditions and ingredients from the owners’ travels. Tickle your taste-buds with something intriguing and your gastro-intestinal system will thank you. Then go have a beignet and cafe au lait at Cafe du Monde. I mean, you kinda have to.

Branch out from deep-fried goodies right after you have beignets at Cafe du Monde

Follow the Music. Not everyone is a lover of jazz or passionate about music, but when in New Orleans, following the music is arguably the best way to live in the moment and catch the laid-back, smile-inducing vibe of the place. As my husband pointed out one night as we walked down an empty French Quarter street, a solo saxophone echoing through nearby buildings, “Music is everywhere in this city, isn’t it?” Even in the early mornings when some musicians are still sleeping off last night, you’ll hear music. Every shop has a soundtrack, half the French Quarter streets have their own resident street musicians, and if you’re lucky you’ll be led to the river by the unmistakable sound of the calliope on the Steamboat Natchez. Weddings almost always include a second line parade, sharing nuptial joy and Dixieland jazz with anyone who’s listening. Clubs all over the city have spectacular acts playing indoors, and then when you walk outside you’re hit with the sound of yet another performance that draws such a crowd on the street that the intersection is impassable to cars (who, by the way, don’t bother honking – they just wait). If you can soak in all that toe-tapping music and not find yourself smiling and moving with the music, you’re a stronger person than I am.

Just another wedding procession in New Orleans

New Orleans can get under your skin in a bad way, but if you let it, this is also a city that can deliver a unique sort of relaxed, whatever-happens-happens kind of a trip.

So, let New Orleans dictate the pace — a slow pace — and you’ll be have a much better time.

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Jessica Spiegel is a Portland-based travel writer for the BootsnAll Travel Network, the RTW travel resource.
She often writes about Italy, but get her started talking about New Orleans and she’ll gush so much
you’ll be looking up cheap flights to New Orleans in no time just to get her to shut up.
Follow her on Twitter @italylogue.<All photos by Jessica Spiegel ©>

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See also
TWT Travel Binder: Louisiana
48 Hours in New Orleans

Travels With Two

Since I haven’t yet made it to New Orleans, I’m happy that Tiffany Monaco has offered to share the itinerary of her recent trip.
Monaco — an elementary school teacher, blogger and aspiring novelist — lives in Louisiana.

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Tiffany Monaco and her husband in New Orleans

Sometimes, I think I look forward to summer even more than my third grade students. Since my husband and I rarely get the chance to get out of town during the school year, and he gets a little time off from his banking job between June and August, every summer break of our nearly six years together we’ve taken as many trips as we can possibly fit in the season.

For our first trip this summer, we decided to stay in our home state and simply travel south to New Orleans for a couple of days. Having both lived in Louisiana our entire lives, we’d been through New Orleans a couple of times before, but hadn’t yet done all the touristy things.

Happily, we can’t say that anymore.

Usually when we go on trips, we’ll drive to a destination and just play things by ear, but our getaways usually don’t tend to be in major cities; for this one, we knew we would have to research a bit more than normal and manage our time well if we wanted to do everything that appealed to us.

When deciding on a hotel for the trip, we searched for a central location so that we could be within walking distance of major attractions; the InterContinenal New Orleans was a perfect fit. Only two blocks from the French Quarter, the elegant hotel has a friendly, knowledgeable staff and big soft beds that called our names after a long day of sightseeing. The flavor is more modern than New Orleans, with all the amenities you’d expect from a big chain (pool, health center, restaurant and bar), but its overall feel is casual and welcoming. ($109 a night for single king and single/double queen bedrooms, $130 for balcony rooms, $259-$349 for suites)

As we’re both huge history geeks, we were excited to make the National World War II Museum our first stop. We’d expected to spend only a couple of hours here, but surprisingly, it ended up taking a good part of the day to explore the courage and sacrifice of the Greatest Generation. We were especially moved by the museum’s video interviews with soldiers, made all the more poignant by the fact that we were surrounded by men (young and old) in uniform with their families. ($19 for adults; free for military in uniform and WWII veterans)

A bit of the French Quarter

Later that evening, we took in New Orleans in the breeziest possible way: aboard the Steamboat Natchez, for a two-hour cruise on the Mississippi River. For a truly New Orleans-style evening — and the romantic highlight of our trip — we chose a sunset dinner cruise accompanied by the cool strains of a Big Easy jazz band. While the dinner cruise can be a bit pricey, we took advantage of coupons which helped us out not only with our night on the river, but the rest of the trip, as well. (Harbor Jazz Cruise with lunch: $35.50 for adults; Harbor Jazz Cruise with dinner: $67.50 for adults)

The Steamboat Natchez, in port on the Mississippi

The next day was almost ridiculously hot, so we decided to head up to the InterContinental’s rooftop pool for an afternoon dip. While floating around, we met a fun couple from Ohio who were on their first trip to New Orleans and eager to swap stories and sights; they had loved a nearby ice cream shop they’d discovered the day before, the Creole Creamery. Taking only enough time to dry off and throw on some clothes, we rushed our collective sweet tooth straight to a shared sundae…and the day suddenly got a whole a lot cooler. At any one time they have what seems like a hundred ice cream flavors (from key lime pie to candied bacon) and creative sorbets like strawberry lemonade, cucumber and even cream soda. ($4 – $8 for fountain classics and specialties, $2.75 for single scoop)

The non-stop party on Bourbon Street

Our touristy trip to New Orleans demanded a wander through the historic French Quarter. The neighborhood is steeped in pirates, ghosts, voodoo and a seemingly non-stop party, but we strolled right past the bars that line Bourbon Street and took a seat outside at Café du Monde, famous for its café au lait (chicory-flavored coffee with a mix of half-and-half and hot milk), spiced coffees, and beignets (square French-style doughnuts, covered with powdered sugar).

Cafe au lait and beignets at Cafe du Monde

On a caffeine-and-sugar high, we headed for the bustle of Jackson Square, one of the most iconic spots in New Orleans. Facing the Mighty Mississippi, the square is surrounded by attractions like the Cabildo (site of the Louisiana Purchase signing) and the Presbytere (which includes exhibits on Mardi Gras and Hurricane Katrina). Right at the center, the St. Louis Cathedral, founded in 1720 and the oldest continuously active cathedral in the U.S., dominates the view. Be sure to head inside to get in touch with your spiritual side or indulge in a pure dose of historic beauty; for me, the highlight here was the gorgeous stained glass, recalling the life of the cathedral’s namesake, St. Louis. (Entrance to St. Louis Cathedral is free)

St. Louis Cathedral in Jackson Square

This New Orleans getaway gave us a fun, romantic break and we were able to see the city in a whole different light. If you have a little more time, I’d suggest visiting some of the lesser-known attractions we’ve visited on our previous (and less touristy) trips: for a taste of New Orleans architecture, check out the Elms Mansion, or take a relaxing stroll amongst some of the finest artworks in the nation at the Sydney & Besthoff Sculpture Garden.

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Tiffany, who’s presently preparing for the birth of her twins, enjoys preparing southern feasts for her husband and doing home-improvement projects.
Check out her website: Instructions Optional and follow her on Twitter: @tiffmonaco

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See also
TWT Travel Binder: Louisiana
5 Ways to Ease Into the Big Easy

Travels With Two

This past weekend, we took a brief break from some epic spring cleaning to check out The Garden Conservancy‘s first Open Days event of the year in the Los Angeles area.

Held all over the United States each year between March and November, Open Days allow you to snoop around other people’s backyards and/or find landscaping inspiration while simultaneously raising money to provide and preserve garden spaces across the country. It’s a fun, romantic and altruistic outing, whether you’re traveling in a different city or simply exploring your own. Traditionally a mapped route of six private homes in one area that open their outdoor spaces to the public for one day, Open Days provide a unique opportunity to experience a neighborhood through its plantings, design, architecture and history. The volunteers who work these special events can generally answer questions about the people who own the homes involved, tales of the buildings and homes that surround it, why certain design decisions were made, what to call that purple flower over there, and stuff you’ll probably only think to ask once you’re surrounded by absolute floral magnificence.

Open Days gardens range from homey affairs to sprawling estate layouts, English country to low-water plantings, and it’s fascinating to see how truly gifted gardeners incorporate fountains, pools, waterfalls, patios, sculpture, lighting and a myriad artistic details into their designs. For garden and travel lovers like us, it’s also just plain exciting when we discover exotic plants we’ve never seen before.

These are some glimpses of this past Sunday’s Open Days event in Pasadena, California. Be sure to check out the entire Open Days schedule to see where you might catch some cool gardens in your area — or on your next vacation.

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Open Days are held around the U.S. between March and November,
on Saturdays and Sundays between (generally) 9am and 5pm.
No reservations are necessary, and all tours require self-driving.
Each Open Days event provides a starting point address where you can pick up a map of the day’s gardens.
Tickets can be purchased online in advance, or in person at any stop along an Open Days route.
Ticket prices: 6 for $25 US for non-members, or 6 for $15 US for Garden Conservancy members.

Travels With Two

Sanibel Island in Lee County, Florida

A few months ago, my dear friend Kara Williams, travel writer for The Vacation Gals and much more, traveled with her husband, Quent, to Florida’s Sanibel Island and Fort Myers for the first time.

What they found were white-sand beaches, a hazy, pink early-evening sky and a relaxed, fun couple’s getaway…especially when a couple leaves their beloved children at home, with grandma.

Together since 1998 and now living in the Colorado mountains with their two kids, Kara and Quent had previously only traveled to Florida to visit friends — and Mickey Mouse — in Orlando. Being utterly landlocked leaves the couple craving an ocean fix a couple times a year, and an invitation to Fort Myers and Sanibel from the Lee County Visitors & Convention Bureau fit the bill just perfectly.

While the area had initially experienced a nervous slowdown in tourism immediately following last summer’s BP oil spill, by the Fall, tourists had begun to realize that the area’s white-sand beaches were safe (having been protected from the spill by the West Florida continental shelf), and were starting to return.

In late September, the Williamses flew off to Lee County. The area’s closest airport is Southwest International Airport (RSW), served by direct flights from many American cities, as well as Toronto. However, there are no direct flights from Kara’s home airports, Aspen (ASE) and Eagle County (EGE); they had to fly from EGE and connect to a direct flight on Frontier from Denver (DEN) to RSW.

They were lucky enough to stay for four nights: two in Fort Myer’s Cape Coral suburb, at the Resort at Marina Village, and two on Sanibel at the romantic Gulf Breeze Cottages. Kara especially loved the latter’s chill vibe and rustic cottage beach scene.

On Sanibel, one of the most popular activities is shell collecting. With the help of a laminated shell guide (The Ultimate Guide to Sanibel & Captiva Shells and Beach Life), Kara (and a only-halfway-interested Quent) sorted out the sandy shell blanket of the Sanibel shoreline; this guide helpfully divvies shells into “Common” (e.g., scallops, sailor’s ears and lettered olives), “Good Finds” and “Rare Treasures.”

Shelling is apparently best during the hour before and the hour after low tide, but Kara saw one dedicated family scouring the beach after dark, buckets and flashlights in hand. It’s ideal to hunt at the surf line (where waves are breaking) and trash line (the high tide marker), and to bring a container to store your sandy loot. Kara’s poor hubby, already questioning the need to bring home a gajillion shells, was forced to carry her mollusk-y booty in his pockets.

(Thankfully, there’s a “shell washing” sink outside at the Gulf Breeze Cottages.)

While they didn’t find the calm Gulf waters good for boogie boarding, they did find them warm enough for a dip. They also enjoyed a sunset catamaran cruise, courtesy of Captiva Cruises; they “caught the boat” at the huge, upscale South Seas Island Resort on neighboring Captiva Island (about 30 minutes’ drive from the Gulf Breeze Cottages). The catamaran for their cruise was designed to accommodate 24 passengers, but they were happy to find only 12 on board, all couples traveling without kids. Captiva also offers shelling cruises, as well as lunch cruises to Cayo Costa (a state park, accessible only by boat) and Cabbage Key, which features an historic inn and nature trails.

One day, the couple borrowed beach cruisers from the Gulf Breeze Cottages (these can also be rented from Billy’s Rentals on Sanibel) and took the flat, paved bike trails out in the direction of the Sanibel Lighthouse. Unfortunately, just as they took off, clouds started moving in. They thought they’d be fine, but no. Big, big no. They were caught in full-on pelting rain, the kind where drops are so hard they actually hurt. To avoid the danger of zero visibility, they pulled into an old gas station to wait out the storm; not much later, it passed as though it never happened, and they carried on…straight to an ice cream stand. Suitably stuffed, they lost motivation and never did make it to the lighthouse. But, well, such are the perils of vacation.

Their favorite excursion was a peaceful, self-guided kayak tour through the J.N. “Ding” Darling Wildlife Refuge, courtesy of Tarpon Bay Explorers. While kayaking through the mangroves, the couple were happy to spot birds like the White Ibis, Little Blue Heron and the Double-Crested Cormorant…as well as five other kayaking couples. Even with all the human traffic, this quiet outing still felt romantic and secluded.

Kara warns that in September, at least, the weather is sweat-dripping-off-your-back hot and humid during the day; however, the nights cool down quite nicely. Out and about, she wore sleeveless tops and skirts, and her husband was most comfortable in shorts and t-shirts. It’s not a particularly dressy part of the world, so there’s no need to pack lots of finery. Kara was happy to always have a sweater or sweatshirt on hand for too-cold air conditioners, and when dining, the couple opted for outdoor seating whenever possible.

Cost-conscious when traveling, the couple was glad to find full kitchens at both the Gulf Breeze Cottages and the Resort at Marina Village; it was a pleasure to be able to shop at local supermarkets for breakfast and picnic fixings. But when they dined out on Sanibel and Pine Islands and in Cape Coral, they didn’t think the food was particularly expensive, and certainly cheaper than most Caribbean resort vacations.

Their favorite meals out were sandwiches at Pine Island’s out-of-the way, down-home local favorite, The Waterfront; sushi at Marker 92 at the Resort at Marina Village; and the seafood-a-palooza at Nervous Nellie’s in Fort Myers Beach. The couple’s one dining disappointment: when trying to have a romantic, upscale meal at the Tarpon Lodge on Pine Island (highly recommended by the Lee County tourism folks), they found it closed for a private party.

Quent and Kara Williams in the soft glow of Lee County, Florida

Here are some other area pursuits that the couple missed:

Deep-sea fishing, for which there are approximately one million local outfitters
The Bailey-Matthews Shell Museum
The Sanibel Historical Village and Museum
The Edison & Ford Winter Estates
Sailing courses at the Offshore Sailing and Power School
October to May, flying in an open cockpit bi-plane with Classic Air Ventures
Various nature, wildlife and bird preserves

Kara advises not to plan too many excursions, though. Even with four nights, the couple didn’t find much time to sit on the (gorgeous) beaches.

They preferred Sanibel to Cape Coral, and (with or without their kids) would opt to return there for at least three nights for an opportunity to simply chill out and explore more Sanibel/Captiva restaurants. Kara might also spend some time in bustling Fort Myers, where our mutual friend Mara Gorman of Mother of All Trips had a great stay at the Pink Shell Resort, right on the beach.

Either way, if Kara and her husband were to return to Lee County, they’d consider taking the Key West Express boat to Key West for an overnight.

After all, it’s almost impossible to have too much Gulf of Mexico in your life.

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<All photos by Kara Williams>
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See also

Lee County Visitors & Convention Bureau

and

A Drive Through the Florida Keys
Key West: Slowing Down to a Meander
TWT Travel Binder: Florida

Travels With Two

Along Route 340 in Northern Virginia

We just got back from a weekend in Northern Virginia to meet up with much of my family, and not only did we have a beautiful time…but this is some beautiful country, too.

My beloved first cousin, Hana, graduated from James Madison University in Harrisonburg, VA this last Saturday, and considering she’s the first baby bump I ever felt (at the age of 17), this was a pretty emotional weekend. We’re both incredibly proud of her, and thrilled that she has the spirit of an adventurer, pursuing charitable projects both overseas and here in the U.S.

To be there for the weekend, Adam and I took a Thursday redeye on American Airlines from LAX into Dulles International Airport (IAD). On a whim, I’d picked up No-Jet-Lag, a homeopathic drug at Whole Foods that promised miraculous results…and worked pretty well. After picking up our rental car and taking a short nap at my Aunt Kari’s (Hana’s mom) in nearby Reston, we were awake enough to drive a healthy stretch of Shenandoah National Park’s Skyline Drive ($15 US for a 7-day park pass), which offers one gauzy, green vista after another.

We had the Skyline Drive to ourselves quite a lot

Table for two at the restaurant in the Skyland Lodge

In Spring, best to slow down along the Skyline Drive; deer come to the roadsides to forage

It's good to get out of the car now and again along the way

The rest of the weekend, not so much with the couples’ travel. But, it was a heck of a lot of fun.

Aunt Kari had booked two rentals for our family in Massanutten, a ski/water park resort area about 15 minutes west of Harrisonburg. Adam, my brother, Mike, and I stayed in a one-bedroom condo with a pull-out sofa and a view of the surrounding mountains ($290 for two nights); 1/2 mile away, a big group that included my parents stayed in a cozy two-story house on a wooded cul-de-sac. It was fun to have what amounted to a slumber party with Mike, who lives in Maryland, has three young kids, and we don’t see nearly as much as we’d like.

After Saturday’s graduation on the tree-lined quad at JMU, many of us hit the Harrisonburg Farmer’s Market and saw baked goods, plants and Mennonites on display. We caught up over the iced tea of the day at Earth & Tea Cafe, poked around local arts and crafts at Oasis Gallery, and then met for a stellar lunch of black bean burgers, parmesan orzo and cucumber mojitos at the wildly painted, brick-walled cafe/concert venue, Clementine.

One of Harrisonburg's finest old houses is an inn called the Joshua Wilton House

Graduation lunch at Clementine: Mike and Dad are 2nd and 3rd from the back left, my dad's next to my Aunt Lisa, I have my hand on Mom's shoulder; on the couch, Hana's sitting with her dad, my Aunt Kari, and Larry's mom

Sunday was Mother’s Day, the first I’d been with my mom in ages.  On this chilly and windy day, she, my dad, Mike and we headed way underground to one of the area’s biggest attractions, Luray Caverns ($21-23 US per adult).  The public portion of this massive, well-paved cave system (the path, my dad happily quipped, was “designed for fat people”) takes a little over an hour to wander through. Cavern highlights range from a cathedral/wedding room with an echoing organ to broken stalagmites that look like two fried eggs, but our collective favorite was Dream Lake, a shallow pool that offers a surreal mirror reflection of the stalactites above.

Dream Lake at Luray Caverns

Two (famous) broken stalagmites look like fried eggs

The pipe organ in the caverns' cathedral/wedding room

After a lunch of what probably isn’t “The Best Burger in Virginia” (but was nonetheless served with a smile) at the adjacent, 19th-century town of Luray’s Artisans Grill (lunch for two, about $20) we parted ways with lots of hugs; Adam and I took the shorter but gorgeous way back to Dulles along Route 340 to Route 66 (about two hours). We passed red-roofed farmhouses and paddocks full of horses, gurgling rivers and yawning swaths of low mountains thickly covered with trees.

The reddest barn roofing we've ever seen

Route 340 heading north

I often wish I lived close enough so that family weekends like this one were a far more common occurrence, especially because as I sat on the 5-hour plane ride home I read an article on the moral dilemma of flying; according to the writer, the single worst thing anyone can do for the environment is, well, fly in a plane — even if it’s to be with their family. So for now, I’ll keep recycling, make a lot of calls back East…and look for a great carbon offset program.

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See also
TWT Travel Binder: Virginia
A Spring Drive Through the American South – Part One
A Spring Drive Through the American South – Part Two
A Spring Drive Through the American South – Part Three
A Spring Drive Through the American South – Part Four

Travels With Two

*All travel expenses for this stay were paid by Hawks Cay Resort, but all opinions are my own

The Gulf-side gazebo at Hawks Cay Resort

Sometimes getting away from work and reconnecting with the world (and each other) is as simple as a sunrise turning to denim-blue sky, water green as sea glass, and the quiet slap of the Gulf of Mexico against a wooden dock.

Welcome in a pod of cetaceans, a flock of pelicans and a freshly mixed mojito, and you’ve got yourselves a perfect Florida Keys escape at Hawks Cay.

Turning left off of Overseas Highway 1 at Mile Marker 61, I crossed the white-washed bridge to Duck Key beneath a soaring swath of cormorants. I slowed down to watch a leisure trawler putter slowly out of the marina into the mid-afternoon sun, and read the inscription on its back:

A World Away, The Florida Keys.

On Duck Key, 20 minutes south of Islamorada and north of Marathon, Hawks Cay inhabits its own island and its own atmosphere, both relaxed and luxurious.

Within moments of my arrival in the airy lobby, I was seated out back at the Beach Grill, watching flashy cigarette boats cruise soundlessly back and forth through a channel bordered by mangroves and chalky coral. As I leaned back in a teak chair, put up my bare feet and sipped my citrus mojito, two little girls in crayon-bright bathing suits shared a chicken salad wrap with great concentration, looking up only long enough to smile at each other.

Ranked in 2009 by Travel+Leisure as the #2 resort in Florida and the #32 resort in the U.S. and Canada, Hawks Cay is laid back but not undiscovered. Full to capacity during my late February stay, seemingly every other guest was European or South American; their mingled accents and languages, mixed with southern, Cuban and Caribbean lilts, made me feel happily adrift from familiar ground.

Around Hawks Cay, clockwise from top L: The main pool, whimsical sign, around the saltwater lagoon, tables at the Beach Grill, cigarette boats cruise for attention, the glorious fruit table at the Terrace

My water view guest room, with its big West Indian-style mahogany bed, framed shell collections and gleaming vanity, was something I wish I’d designed for my home. Just outside, it was a few steps to the one adults-only pool and hot tub; I swanned around out there until a catering team quietly descended to set up for a private party.

This event lasted several hours right outside my room, and through the thickly-paned glass of my back door I rarely heard a poolside peep. However, through my thin front door, I could hear even the softest whisper out in the hall; anytime there was a knock on a door, it sounded as if it was on mine. After the first couple of hours I got used to it, but late night returns and early morning departures still occasionally broke through my perfect peace.

My water view guest room and its water view at Hawks Cay

Up early the next day with a peachy glow in the sky and a light breeze skipping the water, I had the resort’s nature trails all to myself. Breakfast at the Terrace was a gorgeous buffet of fruits, homemade pastries and fluffy eggs, and I took a seat by a window to watched the morning clouds roll away.

Soon it was time for the star attraction, the Dolphin Connection. Hawks Cay is one of the few U.S. resorts with a dolphin attraction that’s also an accredited training facility, and I was eager to experience their Dolphin Discovery program ($155 for 45 minutes).

After squeezing myself into a fetching wetsuit, our small group was given a 20-minute tutorial on Atlantic bottlenose dolphin anatomy and physiology, as well as what we can all do to improve the health of seas and oceans. Afterwards, a trainer-in-training led my small group to short docks over an enclosed portion of Duck Key’s saltwater lagoon. For 25 minutes, with a few short breaks, we were gently introduced to the Connection’s five male dolphins in the water. I spent most of my time with Hastings or Lucky, getting a safely orchestrated hug and kiss, flipper-to-palm dancing, fish-feeding, giving dolphin belly rubs…and smiling my face off.

I had been concerned about the Humane Society’s plea to end swim-with-dolphin attractions, but what I found at Dolphin Connection hit all of HSUS’ more positive marks. The dolphins here are all captive-bred, and two male pairs are longtime companions (male dolphins naturally form multi-decade friendships in the wild). Trainers treat their charges with care and respect, and human-dolphin time is strictly limited each day. The pen here is their actual saltwater habitat, and only one dolphin has ever attempted escape; after a brief adventure, he came back to the life he knows.

Scenes from Dolphin Connection: saltwater lagoon; Hastings and me; group belly rub; a pre-water tutorial

Post-Discovery, still on a dolphin high, I wandered over to the Duck Key Marina and took a seat on the gray, weathered docks to watch pelicans swoop in to land, ruffle their feathers, and take deep breaths before settling in beside one another for a nice long stare. Diving and snorkel boats had already left the harbor, so sport fishermen left behind cleaned their catches or took their dogs for walks around the island.  One lone couple pushed off in a kayak, headed for mangrove exploration ($20 for a half-day).

I heard the occasional splash of a pelican dive, a lazy wake-clap against a fiberglass hull, and the distant trill of a transistor radio. I could have sat there all day, waiting for Tom’s Harbor House to open.

Scenes from the Duck Key Marina

But I was due at the Calm Waters Spa. Named the #1 hotel spa in the U.S. and Canada (once again by Travel + Leisure), it’s small, quiet and a short outdoor walk from the resort lobby. The gift shop has an amazing array of distinctly affordable gifts, like beaded purses, chunky necklaces, comfort flip-flops and batik-print pajamas. The view from the communal steam room and sauna is of treetops and sky, and both are small and immaculate; I only wish that they weren’t co-ed. Be sure to bring a bathing suit to avoid over-sharing with strangers.

After thumbing through a fascinating photo book on Florida, I was ushered into my 80-minute indulgence, Calm Waters’ signature Key Lime Mojito Body Treatment.  (Personally, I like all of those words.)  There was sugar-scrubbing, warm-wrap cocooning, Vichy-showering and massaging, all with the wafting scent of limes; the only way this could have possibly made me happier is if my masseuse had crammed a giant piece of pie in my mouth.

Key Lime shooters at Alma, Hawks Cay's Nuevo Latino restaurant

Turns out, I’d only have to wait a few hours for pie. As a couples’ traveler, I rarely find myself dining alone, but I enjoyed taking myself on a date to Alma, the resort’s swankiest dining room. The cuisine here is Nuevo Latino, the ingredients fresh and often local. Lighting is low, decor is sparkly and modern, service is friendly and the wine list is gorgeous.

I paired an ’07 Albariño with a rich, creamy conch and yautiá chowder, an (almost too) enormous leafy salad, and one of the best dishes I’ve ever eaten, breadfruit gnocchi with sweet cherry tomatoes and oyster mushrooms. I finished a great meal and a heavenly day with dessert — delicious, nearly crustless ”shooters” of  Key Lime Pie (dinner for two, about $120).

NOTE: Hawks Cay is a two-hour drive from Miami, but leave an extra half-hour’s wiggle room for construction along the Overseas Highway.  Spring for the $17 Sun Pass addition to your rental car and save significant time at tolls.  The resort is approximately 30 minutes north of Key West.

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See related posts
Settling in at Hawks Cay…After Quite a Day
A Drive Through the Florida Keys
Key West: Slowing Down to a Meander
TWT Travel Binder: Florida

Travels With Two

Continued from All Aboard the Crown Princess, Pt. 1

*All travel expenses for this trip were paid by Princess Cruises, but all opinions are my own

The Crown Princess

I just spent a week aboard the Crown Princess on my first big-ship cruise, sailing from Ft. Lauderdale, Florida through the Western Caribbean. I brought along my dear friend Samantha (also a cruise newbie), and while the sailing was billed as the Romance Summit, for us it was our first-ever Valentine’s Day away from our husbands. Now that the ground has (almost) stopped moving when I stand still, I feel ready to reflect on our week at sea.

For all you other cruise virgins out there, I continue with our adventures onboard: We saw hundreds of people renew their vows on board. In a flurry of mini-veils and red satin bow ties, scores of couples took advantage of a Valentine’s Day at sea to hit the Lido Deck and re-pledge their undying commitment. Most folks chose to do this without changing out of their t-shirts and sneakers, which seemed to beg the question:  Is love, in fact, blind? Throughout the week, three couples would also get married in the onboard Hearts & Minds chapel, and at least one couple we know of got engaged. Even though Captain Stubing (a.k.a. actor Gavin MacLeod) had to miss the cruise due to a back injury, it was clear they don’t call the Crown Princess ‘The Love Boat” for nothin.’

Couple renewing their vows on the Lido Deck; the chapel decked out for a wedding

Turns out you can get flowers on board…from anywhere. Despite Adam being in Santa Fe, New Mexico and Samantha’s husband Eddie in L.A., we both got flowers well after the ship had gone out to sea. Adam arranged delivery to our room of a dozen roses through the Princess website, and via email, Eddie alerted Sammy to a beautiful card and Grow a Dozen Roses™ he’d stashed in her suitcase. All week, we watched this genius gift expand in a glass of water, wondering if it might become a floral version of  A Fish Out of Water.

My onboard Valentine's roses from Adam

We decided that if we couldn’t be with the ones we love, we’d love the ones we were with. True, we were far away from our husbands on V-Day, but together we celebrated the ship’s Valentine’s Day gala with fancy dresses, champagne and pink-feathered, sparkly tiaras. While we were in keeping with the spirit of a “princess cruise,” we were by no means the best- dressed on board; many folks brought full-length ball gowns and tuxes. Daring, considering that airline luggage fees are now $20+ per checked bag.

Samantha and I toasting Valentine's Day in the Crooners Lounge

We sat in on the Romance Summit. In honor of Valentine’s week, Princess assembled a “Department of Romance” to help singles and couples make positive changes in their love lives. The panel’s big stars were Trista & Ryan Sutter, the first couple to meet and get married via the ABC reality show, The Bachelorette. They were really nice folks and their kids (who they brought with them) are almost ridiculously adorable.

I, however, was thrilled to meet and hear Anna Post, great-granddaughter of Emily Post, who shared her tips on relationship etiquette; and the glamorous, fabulous Dee Frazier, founder of The University of Dating. Together, these women could improve the romantic connection between every couple imaginable.

We visited the bridge. Our group was given leave to join twinkly Captain Proctor, the Scotsman behind our daily loudspeaker announcements, at the navigational nerve center of the ship. Just about everything is digitally controlled these days — though there are still paper maps on hand for emergencies — and a modern ship’s wheel is a disappointing four inches in diameter. Just about every navigator up there is handsome and Italian, the window wipers are positively enormous, and the view is spectacular.

Turns out anyone can book a tour of the bridge and more. We talked with a man from Chicago who’d just taken his wife on The Ultimate Ship Tour and loved it. The $150 tour (available on several Princess ships) lasts several hours and gives ship passengers access to “back-of-house” areas like the galley, laundry, engine control room, medical center, etc.

Captain Proctor showing us the bridge; the ship's wheel is in the left foreground

We continued to eat, drink, and eat some more. Lobster at the Crown Grill. Elegant, healthy egg-white breakfasts and later, 15 magical Italian courses at Sabatini’s. Caffeine at The Piazza, a European-vibe coffee café that serves espresso drinks and my favorite bean, Jamaican Blue Mountain. Gorgeous Greek salad, lemon shrimp and bakery treats at The International Café, which would be more than welcome to set up shop in our own homes.

Heartbreakingly delicious grilled shrimp at Sabatini's

We learned that onboard wine tasting isn’t our cup of tea. Samantha and I are big into wine, and actually met at a tasting. We were excited to visit Vines, the Crown Princess’s onboard wine bar, and to sign up for a special wine tasting event at Sabatini’s (for $25) that would include the legendary Opus One.

At Vines, where wine is charged to your room card, you’re supposed to be given complimentary sushi and tapas, and with any luck, offered the opportunity to purchase gourmet cheeses for $1 per generous portion. Despite being the only people in the bar one early evening, we were offered none of these things by the one unfriendly waiter who took our wine order. We eventually managed to order a little sushi and a plate of cheese, but both were delivered with a world-weary sigh. We loved the German blue cheese…but we didn’t linger.

The wine tasting at Sabatini’s turned out to be dull and stuffy. About 60 silent people were stiffly seated at round tables around the posh dining room while a series of European waiters took to microphones in heavily-accented English to explain each wine on the list in aching, uninspired detail. In a smaller setting, this approach might have allowed for some relaxed laughter, but in this format was as much fun as taking the SATs. The gorgeous wine selections were worth the money we paid, but we’d rather have fled this uptight scene.

We got stressed out at the spa. Samantha and I were kindly invited to try out complimentary treatments at the ship’s lovely Lotus Spa…but this wasn’t as lovely as it may sound.

My massage and facial left me temporarily boneless as a rubber chicken, but Samantha’s seaweed wrap proved cold and clammy rather than warm and soothing. (Think “getting an ultrasound,” and you’ve got the basic idea.) At the end of each of our treatments, we were helped to sit up, still naked under sheets, handed water and, unbidden, were given lectures from our early 20-something aestheticians on how to take better care of ourselves. Samantha’s talking-to involved a stern warning to immediately abandon all the foods she holds dear in favor of anything alkaline. I was given a 10-minute hard sell for about $400 worth of skin care products that could conveniently be found at the front desk.

Moments later, through a minor misunderstanding, we were each brought bills for about $300. I was shocked to learn that if my own spa experience had gone according to the Lotus plan, I would have left not only annoyed, but also $700 lighter. (The error of “$300 vs. free” was immediately fixed by the front desk, but unfortunately, none too politely.)

The Lotus Spa's elusive Thermal Suite

We would later discover that, press trip aside, suite passengers and folks who’ve booked spa treatments are afforded free access to the Thermal Suite, a quiet, co-ed area replete with heated-tile lounging beds and aromatic steam rooms. (Otherwise, access to the Thermal Suite costs $20 a day, $99 a week or $150 for a couples’ pass.)

However, we weren’t informed about this at the time of our spa visit by the spa staff, and in fact weren’t given leave to visit the ladies’ locker room or change into robes. It would take several attempts (and a Princess rep’s intervention) to convince the front desk staff we were worthy of a 20-minute visit to the Suite, but by then the shine was off our relaxation penny. That said, you should (try to) get in and snag two tiled lounges side by side…it’s warm and smells nice in there.

We sampled the onboard activities. We dropped in on one of the small, daily LGBT (Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual, Transgender) gatherings and learned all about the lavish costume parties on gay cruise lines like RSVP. Most couples agreed that the Crown Princess is pretty straight, but that this environment makes for a more monogamously-themed vacation. For one young guy in this group, this was his 26th Princess cruise, but his first with his new boyfriend.

While I Romance Summited on my own, Samantha hit the heavenly, al fresco, adults-only Sanctuary (my choice of alternative to the Lotus Spa); went to the tricked-out gym to ride a tandem bike with a view of the sea; then played a rousing game of bingo at the casino with a handful of elderly Canadians.  

Together, we laughed along with relationship comedian (and Romance Summit member) Kevin Hughes and took in the extravaganza of the Princess Theater’s Destination Anywhere, where the music veers from romantic Big Band to awkwardly raunchy rap to Janet Jackson’s Rhythym Nation to the “Lion King” soundtrack.

On my own, I helped cheer on a Men’s Sexy Legs contest, where 83 year-old Carl was the clear (and saucy) winner.

Destination Anywhere...and Destination Carl

We puzzled over the onboard art gallery. As some of you know, when I’m not a travel writer, I’m an artist; I love going to art galleries and museums, and enjoy seeing how art is created, packaged and sold. What I do not know is how cartoon children dressed as scruffy clowns, cross-legged bronze unicorns and a big green olive with arms and legs could command prices upwards of $20,000. (Accent, by the way, on the “upwards.”) There was a big art auction by week’s end, and we saw several pieces get snatched up by discerning guests who have either a rollicking sense of humor or a desire to set wads of their cash aflame.

Painting by Michael Godard

We fell in love with “Photo Alley.” Every day, just outside the Crown Grill restaurant, there was an ever-growing display of professional photos taken of the ship’s guests at different special events. We pored over these each evening, looking for interesting faces, fancy outfits and couples in love. Folks from these photos became pseudo-celebrities to us, and if we saw them around the ship we’d poke each other and say, “There he/she is!”  (Clearly, in some ways, we are still in junior high.)

Each night at 11pm, the $6+ photos would be locked away, always before we were done…while the $20,000+ artwork would just sit out for all to see. Unfair, if you ask me.

We excursion’ed off the ship four times. I signed us up for tours in several ports:

Grand Cayman
Roatán, Honduras
Cozumel, Playa del Carmen and the ruins of Tulum in Mexico
Eleuthera, Bahamas

Accounts of these adventures to follow!

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Continued in
Turtles, Hell and Rum Cake: Grand Cayman
The Highs and Lows of Roatan
Doin’ Time at the Ruins of Tulum
Eleuthera: Between Oh Lord and Thank God

Travels With Two

*All travel expenses for this trip were paid by Princess Cruises, but all opinions are my own

The Crown Princess docked in Port Everglades

I just spent a week aboard the Crown Princess on my first big-ship cruise, sailing from Ft. Lauderdale, Florida through the Western Caribbean. I brought along my dear friend Samantha (also a cruise newbie), and while the sailing was billed as the Romance Summit, for us it was our first-ever Valentine’s Day away from our husbands.

Now that the ground has (almost) stopped moving when I stand still, I feel ready to reminisce on our week at sea. For all you other cruise virgins out there, here we go:

Well, first there was a night in Hollywood. Hollywood, Florida, that is. The flights with the best schedules from the West Coast get you into Miami at either the crack of dawn or the late afternoon.  Since boarding of the Crown Princess at Port Everglades in Ft. Lauderdale (40 minutes or so from MIA) doesn’t begin until about 1 pm, and there’s little entertainment near the port, there’s no sense to arriving early.

So, Princess booked us on a morning departure-afternoon arrival flight the day before our sailing and put us up in the Marriott Hollywood Beach, where the turquoise exterior is pure early ’60s but our beautifully re-done ninth-floor room featured a sweeping view of the ocean. The Tiki-themed restaurant downstairs was wafting the odors of a high school cafeteria (turns out its chef is none other than Ron Duprat, maligned Top Chef Las Vegas contestant), so despite the rainy night we hit our iPhones for dinner suggestions. We came up with Giorgio’s Grill, popular with both Hollywood’s large retirement community and its grown children, and tried crisp Greek wine, a big bright salmon salad, shrimp saganaki with tomatoes and feta, and tender grilled octopus. We were so stuffed that even with the chilly drizzle, we walked the half-mile back to the hotel. We briefly regretted having to half-unpack, but we did get a good night’s sleep.

Morning view from the 9th floor, Hollywood Beach Mariott

We boarded at Port Everglades. The next morning, we stapled our pre-provided luggage tags to our bags (we’d been emailed with our itineraries while still at home), and our excursion-bus journey to Port Everglades took all of 10 minutes with traffic. Besides the Crown Princess, which can carry over 3000 passengers and 1200 crewmembers, there were about five other massive ships in port. We were immediately struck by the overwhelming infrastructure; the processing center for Princess alone seems every bit as large as Port Authority in New York City.

We were lightly security-screened, then herded towards long lines in a great big concrete hall with a long row of reception booths at one end; imagine checking in to a friendly gulag. In exchange for presenting our passports and itinerary confirmations, we were each presented with the lifeblood of any modern big-ship cruise: Our card.

This ship-issued card is linked to a credit card you provide, and enables you to embark/disembark on excursions, identify yourself and generally lose track of what you’re spending on board. The Coke sticker you see here on mine is ship gold (and a press trip perk), as it gets you free sodas.

My Princess Cruises identification and onboard purchase card

We embarked. At first, when aboard a leisure flotilla like the Crown Princess, one doesn’t so much leave a port as bids it a splashy adieu. After a relatively painless (massive) group instruction on the ways of life jacket safety, we were treated to a triumphant horn blast and given leave to hit the decks for a booty-shakin’ farewell party. For instance, the Caribbean house band, Temperature, treated us to a rousing rendition of “Hot Hot Hot.”

Good, good times.

Pre-embarkation safety drill in the Princess Theater, illustrating that orange isn't my color

Leaving Fort Lauderdale, Florida in the dust, we waved goodbye to those who live in shore-bound homes and pointed our faces towards the blue unknown. We refrained from getting those all-important “I’m king of the world” photos, though, as crawling up on the prow is frowned upon by the gentlemen up on the bridge.

Leaving Port Everglades and Ft. Lauderdale (that's Samantha's on the left)

We explored the ship. The Crown Princess isn’t interested in you wasting your hours at sea. There are two big pools on the Lido Deck. At the back of the ship, in what I call Hot Tub Alley, there are a whopping three tubs to choose from, and four others elsewhere. There’s a basketball court (mysteriously placed above the finest dining establishment on board, Sabatini’s) and a nine-hole golf putting course. There’s a spa and wedding chapel, a full-service gym, a casino (empty at noon but full by midnight), a shopping mall, a central marble-and-glass piazza, a library, an enormous outdoor movie screen, three theaters, bars and restaurants for days, and even a disco.

Oh, and don’t even get me started on the art gallery…that’ll come later.

All around the Crown Princess, from top to bottom

We unpacked. Storage space in our cozy ninth-deck mini-suite (retail-priced at about $1000/night) was at a premium, but we managed to find plenty of cubby, drawer and closet space for all our dresses, shoes, toiletries, etc. If I’d been traveling with Adam instead of Samantha, I’d have been positively rolling in room rather than merely afforded what I need. Either way, we stored our suitcases neatly under each of our twin beds and rarely gave them another thought.

Plugs, though, are hard to come by on the Crown Princess. Samantha and I both travel with laptops, iPhones and digital cameras, but neither of us thought to bring a splitter; luckily, we were able to score a power strip from Maciej, our magical Polish room steward. (On the last day of the cruise, I found a small black travel bag on a corner of the floor full of handy items from Princess, including a power strip/adapter…and thank them for their heartfelt generosity.)

I took a brief seat on our un-shaded balcony to enjoy the sea rushing by in the last half-hour of daylight; turning around, I could see 50 other people doing the same thing from their balconies. It was clear that there would be little opportunity for wandering out here in my jammies throughout the week.

Our Dolphin Deck mini-suite; the hallway outside; the view of the bridge from our balcony

We ate. Oh, there’ll be a lot more on this topic, as unless you’ve been living under a rock, you’ve surely heard that there’s a lot of chow on cruise ships.Our first few meals prepared us perfectly for the adventure of all-inclusive onboard dining.

Dinner was at Michelangelo’s, a huge, plush room tricked out in glorious Art-Deco-homage-in-the-1980s style, its kidney-shaped chrome ceiling studded with lots of little night-sky lights. (Upstairs one deck is DaVinci’s, an almost interchangeable version of the this same room. This is an Italian-built ship, and you’ll see a lot of Italian names and dining on board.)

Our twinkly Eastern European head waiter, Daniel, walked us through the menu: right side, what’s on tap for tonight; left side, what you can have every single night. Wine here is mid-range but free-flowing. I’d recommend skipping the hard bread rolls, trying any fish dish (veggie sides will be offered throughout the meal) and sharing their gorgeous desserts. The more meals you share, in fact, the better chance you have of  not gaining weight while aboard.

If you have allergies, let the ship know before you board, and all your sit-down meals will be planned accordingly for you.

Dinner at Michelangelo's; all-you-can-eat sushi at Cafe Caribe; breakfast at Horizon Court

Breakfast and lunch were at the Horizon Court and Café Caribe, respectively, which are both buffets and wonderful places to feel good about your body shape and genealogy. (That is to say, this is not where you’ll find the beautiful folks on board.) There’s generally an array of cereals, eggs, grilled mushrooms, a salad bar and lots of fruit, but we were blown away by their soups, especially the golden pea and the garbanzo bean stew.  

Protocol is simple: You lather up with anti-bacterial hand gel, grab a ridiculously large plate, jostle with hungry, possibly hostile people who resent having to wait in line, and tuck in with as much restraint as you can muster.  Phew.

Continued in
All Aboard the Crown Princess, Pt. 2

Travels With Two