We had what amounted to nine waking hours in San José, the capital of Costa Rica. We’d never been to a large city in Central America before, and now we have a better idea of what faded grandeur, a huge population, a vibrant art scene, a lot of concrete, a long swath of parks and a glut of cheap goods can do to a place.
But to be fair, we already had a shorthand advantage: we live in Los Angeles.






